#17 Marathon

Last, but not least, a lunch stop in Marathon, about 30 minutes east of Alpine on Highway 90.  Marathon might have been the smallest town I visited with a population of less than 400.  But they are bustling for such a small town.  Marathon is home to the Gage Hotel, another historic hotel that has been around for decades.  It was designed by Henry Trost out of El Paso; Trost is considered to be the first nationally recognized architect from Texas and his style is distinct.  

 

The rain followed me from Alpine, so I was limited in my adventures.  I did manage to stop off at the French Grocer & Deli, the Marathon Public Library, and the site of the first schoolhouse in Brewster County.

I did get to have lunch at Brick Vault & Brewery which is next to the Gage.  I knew it would be legit, because Daniel Vaughn of Texas Monthly had reviewed it and listed it as one of the top new BBQ places in Texas when it opened a few years ago. It did not disappoint!  Check out my picture and you know that brisket was smoked to perfection.  The borracho beans were packed full of flavor and the green chili mac & cheese was creamy and wonderfully cheesy.

#16 Alpine

Alpine is about 30 miles east of Marfa.  It is home to Sul Ross University and the original Reata restaurant.  Reata is named after the ranch from Giant.

I felt it was important to have dinner at the original Reata.  A lot of really delicious options to choose from, but the chicken fried chicken with mashed potatoes was calling my name.  Simple, but oh, so yummy!  And the serving was huge.  Luckily my hotel room had a mini fridge, so I was able to bring my leftovers back with me.  For dessert, I tried the buttermilk pecan pie and it was one of the best pies I have ever had.  I would kill to have that recipe!  Like my chicken fried chicken, the serving was huge; that pie made for a great mid-morning snack the next day.

I walked about Alpine just for a little bit.  By this point in my trip, the 100 degree days had been replaced by rain, so I didn't really get to do the things I had planned.  But that's okay . . . I've already decided that a second trip to West Texas is real possibility.

Out of all of the places I visited, Alpine is the largest with a population of around 5000.  I guess that is due to the fact that Sul Ross State University is located in Alpine.  They also have a baseball team, the Alpine Cowboys.  

    

Last stop, Marathon and then it's time to head home.

#15 Marfa

Marfa, Texas, is a small West Texas town known for its art scene and where the 1956 classic Giant was filmed.  I only had a day in Marfa; it definitely deserves more time than that so I hope I get to go back some day to really take in the amazing art this town is known for.

My first stop was to Prada.  Not a real store, but an art installation.  Probably one of the art installations Marfa is most well known for.  It's actually about 45 miles west of Marfa in an even smaller town, Valentine.  There is a chain link fence surrounding three sides; visitors are invited to bring their own locks to add to the art.  I just love this unexpected huge piece of art literally in the middle of nowhere.

 

For lunch I went to the famed Food Shark.  I think it was originally a food truck, but it's now in an old house and only open on the weekends.  It's a fresh take on Mediterranean food. I had the Marafalafel with hummus.  Falafel balls, hummus, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, tahini & yogurt all wrapped in a flour tortilla.  It was delicious and so filling!  It lasted me all day long.  You can get it to go or dine there.  Just know that all seating is outside and while most seats are in the shade, it can still get toasty.

After lunch, I headed back towards Fort Davis to visit Chateau Wright Winery & Vineyard for a wine tasting.  They are still a young winery, maybe around 5 years old, but they have some fabulous selections and their tasting is a great deal - all 8 of their wines for $15.  The upside to this visit was also the downside.  The tasting room is outside so you can enjoy the view of the Davis Mountains and the vineyards. The patio is covered, but when it's a 100 degrees, that doesn't always make a difference.  If you plan on going, maybe find a cooler time of year.

  

The main reason I wanted to visit Marfa is because of my love for the classic Giant, starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor, and James Dean.  The movie is based on a novel by Edna Farber and tells the story of cattle & oil in Texas.  It's also the last film James Dean was in before he died.  The movie was filmed in the area and the Hotel Paisano was the headquarters for the movie crew.  Like Hotel Limpia, it is an older hotel without modern conveniences, but that's not why you stay there.  The architecture & decor is of another time and it is gorgeous.  Candid photographs of the cast & crew line the walls; there's also a room where guests can watch the movie.  Even if you don't stay there, you should at least visit the Hotel Paisano when you are in Marfa.

  

Driving from Valentine to Marfa, you can find these backdrops for some excellent photo ops.  You can even call ahead and have someone meet you there and let you on the property to get up close.  Maybe next time . . .

    

My final Marfa adventure was the famed Marfa Lights.  The lights are a nightly occurrence, east of town where there is nothing.  Yet these white, red and blue lights show up on an almost nightly basis.  There's no known source of the lights; they just appear as the sky darkens.  Some nights they are more active than others.  On the night I visited, there was some cloud cover, so I don't know that I got the full effect, but the lights were definitely there and moving about the horizon.  They've been around since the late 1800s and there are a lot of theories as to what the lights really are.  I don't know that we'll ever get the full story and I don't know that I would want the full story.  The mystery is part of the allure and just adds to the quirkiness that is Marfa.

#14 Fort Davis

Let me start off by saying I had no idea that Fort Davis was so small; it's population fluctuates between 1000 and 1100 people.  When I was researching about the things to do there, I really thought it would be a bit bigger, like at least 5000 people.  But, nope, much smaller, as evidenced by the lack of a CVS or Walgreens, or any fast food chain.  It was actually quite nice.  It reminded me a bit of Colorado.  Small and picturesque which some great local experiences.

I stayed at Hotel Limpia, which was built in 1912. I adored this hotel, including the front porch with rockers where I could enjoy my book waiting for my day to begin.  It isn't a modern hotel, but it is clean, comfortable, convenient, and historical, so a winner in my book.

It shares this amazing outdoor space with Blue Mountain Bar & Grill (they'll give you a discount when you dine there) and the food is top notch.  Like Perini's in Buffalo Gap, their customer service is exemplary.  They want you to enjoy your time there and are very accommodating.  Next door to Blue Mountain is the Double Shot Coffee Lounge, a great place to start your day with a cup of coffee and a pastry.

Across the street is the Fort Davis Drugstore & Hotel.  A few you of you told me about this place, so I tried it out for lunch one day.  I got the Cowboy Burger and onion rings and it was legit.  I think there was an entire package of crispy bacon on my burger which was awesome.  I loved how they put the cheese on the bacon and then melted it.  A different approach, but it worked.  The onion rings were pretty fabulous, too.  Not my favorite (that honor belongs to the Koffee Kup in Hico), but a close second.

My last morning in Fort Davis was spent at the Fort Davis National Park.  All of the structures are the originals from the mid to late 1800s.  It was one of many forts built along the San Antonio to El Paso Road as pioneers began to move out west, originally searching for gold.  The park does a great job of telling the story from the perspective of the U.S. military, but there's always many stories for each event in history.  It would be nice to see the perspective of the Native Americans as the U.S. Army, settlers, and eventually the railroad came into West Texas.  The park also has some trails you can hike if you are so inclined.  If Marfa weren't calling my name, I might have ventured out, but it was time to move on.

Officers' Quarters

  

  

Enlisted Men's Barracks

 

The Hospital