Driving the Mother Road

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Years ago I read a book about Route 66 and since then, the idea of driving the Mother Road has always been in the back of my mind.  When I started planning my trip to Colorado and Utah, I realized I had the perfect opportunity to drive at least a part of this epic road.  I joined a Facebook group, bought the Rand McNally the Official Route 66 Centennial Map and a travel guide and began my research.

The part of Route 66 I traveled was short, Texola, Oklahoma, to Gallup, New Mexico, a mere 529 miles.  I broke the trip up into two days and to be honest, I didn’t drive the actual Route 66 the entire time.  There were moments I needed to make up time and the Interstate was faster.  There were also a few times I couldn’t find it or in one case, it ended and I had to backtrack to get back on I-40.  Regardless, it was a fantastic drive and I saw some really cool things.  I also learned a few things to adjust for the next time.

Day #1

Texola to Tucumcari (223 miles)

The Panhandle is probably the section I read the most about and had some really cool things to see.

Texola Oklahoma, a town of less than 50 people, is on the Texas-Oklahoma border.  I think the expression “blink and you’ll miss it” originated here.  The minimal traffic made it easy to stop and get a picture of the Rt. 66 emblem painted on the highway though.  I also made sure to stop at the Will Rogers Highway marker.  I didn’t realize that the entire highway was designated as the Will Rogers Highway, a way to memorialize Oklahoma’s favorite son after he died in 1935.

The first town you come to after entering Texas is Shamrock.  Shamrock is home to the Conoco Tower and U Drop Inn.  It was originally built to be three separate structures - service station, restaurant, and retail.  Today it operates as a visitor and community center.  You can also grab a classic diner lunch, Tuesday - Saturday.  It is such a beautiful example of art deco architecture.  Built in 1929, the nearby Magnolia Gas Station slowly lost business after the Conoco Station opened directly on Route 66 in 1936.

 

While you’re in Shamrock, don’t forget to grab a selfie at the Shamrock mural.  And if you have time visit the Blarney Stone monument.

From Shamrock,  head about 20 miles west to McLean.  Here you’ll find the first Phillips Petroleum Station built in Texas.  When I stopped at this landmark, I was immediately transported to the travels of the Joad family in The Grapes of Wrath.  In the book, Steinbeck includes a conversation with the station operator when the family stops for fuel.  I could easily picture that scene happening at this little station not just for the Joads, but for the thousands of families that traveled the Mother Road as they left Oklahoma and Arkansas for the green valleys of California.  Just down the road is the Cactus Inn Motel, which is still in operation.  McLean also has a barbed wire museum; unfortunately it’s closed on Sundays.  Driving down Route 66 through town, it’s hard to imagine that it was once a thriving community with over 20 auto-related businesses - dealerships, repair shops, gas stations etc.  It’s now a sleepy town of about 800 on the outskirts of Amarillo.

Groom is McLean’s smaller neighbor to the west.  I stretched my legs at The Leaning Tower of Texas.  Erected by a business man in the early 80s, it’s long been a topic of conversation.  Texas Highways did a story on it last year; be sure to check it out here.

Amarillo is the largest Texas city on Route 66.  Between the Big Texan, U.S. Route 66–Sixth Street Historic District, and Cadillac Ranch, I knew I wouldn't have enough time for me to truly explore Amarillo, so I decided to skip it on this pass.  I did stop for pictures at the Big Texan and made my way to Slug Bug Ranch.  

  

  

My main goal for day 1 was to grab a slice of pie at the Midpoint Cafe in Adrian, the actual midpoint of the entire Will Rogers Highway.  They close at 4:00 on Sundays, so I knew I wanted to be there by 3:30 at the latest.  Imagine my surprise when I got there at 3:15 and the door was locked!  I called and gave my sob story and the manager was kind enough to let me in.  I grabbed my first souvenirs of the trip and a delicious slice of coconut cream pie.  The whole adventure was made even better when I realized a friend and her family were seated and enjoying their own pie.  What a fabulous surprise!

At this point in the day, I was ready to be in Tucumcari.  It’s only about an hour west of Midpoint, so I arrived and checked into my motel by 5:00.  I was lucky enough to snag a room at the Blue Swallow Motel.  I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I tell you staying at the Blue Swallow was one of the highlights of the trip.  It has been meticulously restored and the owners give you a tour upon check in and share all the history with you.  After being there only 5 minutes, it was easy to see why it’s always booked and highly recommended.  After dinner at SideKix On 66, I found a New Mexico beer at the grocery store and enjoyed a gorgeous evening sitting outside of my room.

  

  

I made sure to drive around and take in the dozens of murals and neon signs, since the museums and even some of the restaurants I wanted to try were closed for the day.